Changu
Narayan
Narayan,
or Vishnu, is the preserver of creation to Hindus. His temple
near Changu village is often described as the most ancient temple
in the Kathmandu Valley. A fifth century stone inscription, the
oldest to be discovered in Nepal, is located in the temple compound
and it tells of the victorious King Mandev. The temple now covers
sixteen hundred years of Nepalese art history. The temple, built
around the third century, is decorated by some of the best samples
of stone, wood, and metal craft in the Valley. In the words of
one tourist guide, "When you look upon Changu Narayan, you
observe the complete cultural development of the Valley."
On
the struts of the two-tiered Changu Narayan Temple, are the ten
incarnations in which Narayan destroyed evil-doers. A sixth-century
stone statue shows the cosmic form of Vishnu, while another statue
recalls his dwarf incarnation when he crushed the evil king Bali.
Vishnu as Narsingha disemboweling a demon is particularly stunning.
The western bronze doors sparkle in the evening sunlight, dragons
decorate the bells, and handsome devas stare from the walls. Garuda,
half man and half bird, is the steed of Vishnu, and his life-sized
statue kneels before the temple. The favourite of many tourists
is the statue of Vishnu sitting astride his steed.