POKHARA
If Kathmandu is the cultural hub of Nepal, Pokhara is its center
of adventure. An enchanting city nestled in a tranquil valley,
it is the starting point for many of Nepal's most popular trekking
and rafting destinations. The atmosphere on the shore of Phewa
Lake is one of excited vitality as hipster backpackers crowd the
many bars and restaurants exchanging recommendations on guest
houses and viewpoints, both by the lake and above the clouds.
Pokhara
is a place of remarkable natural beauty. The serenity of Phewa
Lake and the magnificence of the fishtailed summit of Machhapuchhre
(6,977 m) rising behind it create an ambience of peace and magic.
At an elevation lower than Kathmandu, it has a much more tropical
feel to it, a fact well appreciated by the beautiful diversity
of flowers which prosper in its environs. Indeed, the valley surrounding
Pokhara is home to thick forests, gushing rivers, emerald lakes,
and of course, the world famous views of the Himalaya.
The
powerful rule of the old kings of Kathmandu, the Lichhavis and
the Mallas, held sway over this valley for some time. As these
dynasties fell prey to their own troubles, Pokhara Valley and
the surrounding hills disintegrated into small kingdoms, frequently
at war with each other. These were called the Chaubise Rajya or
the Twenty-four Kingdoms. It was among these that Kulmandan Shah
established his kingdom. His descendant Drabya Shah was the first
to establish Gorkha, home of the legendary Gurkha warriors.
Finally,
Pokhara is part of a once vibrant trade route extending between
India and Tibet. To this day, mule trains can be seen camped on
the outskirts of the town, bringing goods to trade from remote
regions of the Himalaya. This is the land of the Magars and Gurungs,
hardworking farmers and valorous warriors who have earned world-wide
fame as Gurkha soldiers. The Thakalis, another important ethnic
group here, are known for their entrepreneurship.
Mountain
Views
Clearly the most stunning of Pokhara's sights is the
spectacular panorama of the Annapurna range which forms its backdrop.
Stretching from east to west, the Annapurna massif includes Annapurna
1 to IV and Annapurna South. Although the highest among them is
Annapurna 1 (8,091 m), it is Machhapuchhre which dominates all
others in this neighbourhood. Boastfully levitating in the skyline,
the fish-tailed pinnacle is the archetypal snow-capped, needle-pointed
mountain. If you want to see the mountains from close up, Everest
Air offers a mountain flight from Pokhara that takes you on an
aerial sightseeing tour of the western Himalaya.
Phewa
Lake
Phewa Lake, the second largest lake in the Kingdom,
is the center of all attraction in Pokhara. It is the largest
and most enchanting of the three lakes that add to the resplendence
of Pokhara. Here, one can sail or row a hired boat across to the
water or visit the island temple in its middle. The eastern shore,
popularly known as lakeside or Baidam, is the favorite home base
for travellers and is where most of the hotels, restaurants and
handicraft shops are located.
Barahi
Temple
The
Barahi temple is the most important monument in Pokhara. Built
almost in the center of Phewa Lake, this two-storyed pagoda is
dedicated to the boar manifestation of' Ajima, the protesters
deity representing- the female force Shakti. Devotees can be seen,
especially on Saturdays, carrying male animals and fowl across
the lake to be sacrificed to the deity.
Seti
Gandaki
Another of Pokhara's natural wonders that unfailingly
interests visitors is the Seti Gandaki river. Flowing right through
the city, the boisterous river runs completely underground at
places. Amazingly, at certain points the river appears hardly
two meters wide. But its depth is quite beyond imagination over
20 meters! Mahendra Pul, a small bridge near the old Mission Hospital,
provides a perfect view of the river's dreadful rush and the deep
gorge made by its powerful flow.
Devi's
Fall
Locally known as the Patale Chhango (Hell's Fall). Devi's
Fall (also known as Devin's and David's) is a lovely waterfall
lying about two km south-west of the Pokhara airport on the Siddhartha
Highway. Legend has it that a trekker (Devin, David..) was washed
away by the Pardi Khola and mysteriously disappeared down into
an underground passage beneath the fall.
Mahendra
Cave
Another of nature's wonders in Pokhara is the Mahendra
Gupha. This large limestone cave is locally known as the House
of Bats, an apt name for it. A two-hour walk to the north of Pokhara,
it is best to bring your own torch to see the stalactites and
stalagmites, as well as the local winged residents.
The
Old Bazaar
Pokhara's traditional bazaar is colorful and so are its
ethnically diverse traders. In its temples and monuments can be
seen ties to the Newar architecture of the Kathmandu Valley. Located
about four km from Lakeside, the market's original charm is alive
and well. This area strewn with shops selling commodities ranging
from edibles and cloth to cosmetics and gold is a pleasant and
shady spot to stroll around.
The
old bazaar is also home to one of Pokhara's most important shrines'.
Locally called the Bindhyabasini Mandir, this white dome-like
structure dominates a spacious stone-paved courtyard built atop
a shady hillock. It is dedicated to Goddess Bhagwati, yet another
manifestation of Shakti. The park-like grounds offer a fine picnic
area, and on Saturdays and Tuesdays when devotees flock there
to offer sacrifices, it takes on a festive local flavour.
Museums
The Pokhara Museum, located between the bus stop and
Mahendra Pul, reflects the ethnic mosaic of western Nepal. The
lifestyles and history of ethnic groups such as Gurungs, Thakalis
and Tharus are attractively displayed through models, photographs
and artefacts. One major attraction is a display highlighting
the newly-discovered remains of an 8000-year-old settlement in
Mustang. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, from 10 am
to 5 pm. Entrance fee is Rs.10 (tel 20413).
The
Annapurna Regional Museum, also known as the Natural History Museum,
is another interesting visit in Pokhara. Run by the Annapurna
Conservation Area Project (ACAP), the museum has an exceptional
collection of butterflies, insects, birds and models of wildlife
found in the area. Located at Prithvi Narayan Campus east of the
old bazaar, it is open daily except Saturdays and holidays from
9 am to 5 pm. Entrance is free (tel 21102).
Surrounding
Areas
Pokhara is the starting and/or finishing point for some
of the most popular treks including the Annapurna Circuit and
the Jomsom Trek. It also offers a number of short treks for those
who cannot opt for long, challenging ones. The most popular destination
among them is Sarangkot (1592 m), a former Kaski fort lying atop
a hill to the west of Pokhara. The panoramic view of the Himalaya
seen from this point is superb. Kahundanda, Naudanda, Ghandrung,
Ghorepani, and Ghalchok are other favorite destinations around
Pokhara.
Access
Pokhara is located roughly 200 km west of Kathmandu.
The journey between these two famed cities is certainly part of
the Pokhara experience. Flying over the snow-capped Himalaya to
the north and the green Mahabharat range to the south is thrilling,
while the overland journey past sparse rural settlements nestled
along the Trisuli river provides a view of life particular to
Nepal's middle hills. There are daily flights and bus services
between Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Accomodation
Pohara
offers a wide array of hotel facilities from five star class luxury
resorts to budget class guest houses.
